Skincare Ingredient Secrets: How to Read Labels and Spot Harmful Chemicals

I’ve spent too many late nights doing deep dives into dermatology studies with a tea in one hand and a notepad full of oil combos in the other. Why? Because understanding what’s in our skincare is no longer optional—it’s essential. In a world of clever marketing and “greenwashing,” knowing how to read a skincare label can mean the difference between nourishing your skin and unknowingly disrupting your hormones.

Let’s decode the jargon and get real about what you’re putting on your face—because the label isn’t just a suggestion, it’s the truth behind the pretty packaging.

First: Why Do These Complicated Ingredients Exist?

Let’s clear this up right away. Some chemical-sounding ingredients aren't toxic villains—they’re just misunderstood. In fact, certain synthetics are necessary to keep your skincare safe and effective.

Take water-based formulas, for example—they must contain preservatives to prevent mold and bacteria. No one’s signing up for fungal face cream.

A commonly used preservative in mainstream products is phenoxyethanol—it’s affordable and effective. While not “natural,” it’s considered one of the safer synthetic preservatives when used under 1%, and it doesn’t carry the estrogen-mimicking risks that parabens do.

That said, if you're formulating for sensitive skin or prefer a cleaner profile, there are gentler options. For example:

• Ethylhexylglycerin: A skin-conditioning agent that also acts as a mild preservative booster. It’s well tolerated by most skin types and often used in clean beauty for its gentleness.
• Geogard (aka Geogard ECT): A broad-spectrum preservative derived from natural sources (like benzyl alcohol and salicylic acid), which I personally use. It’s EcoCert-approved and gives both safety and performance without harshness.

In short? Not all synthetics are bad. Not all naturals are perfect. But understanding why an ingredient is there is the first step to smart skincare.

pH Balance: Quietly Crucial

Your skin likes to stay around 4.5 to 6.5 pH. Mess with that, and you’re inviting sensitivity, dryness, or breakouts.

Some common pH adjusters include:

• Citric Acid (lowers pH)
• Sodium Hydroxide (raises pH)
  Both sound intense but are widely used to gently balance formulations when dosed correctly.

If you’re aiming for even more sensitive skin–friendly options, one underrated star is:

• L-Arginine: An amino acid that can help raise the pH in overly acidic formulas—perfect for delicate skin that needs babying. I’ve used it myself when working with particularly reactive formulas.  ( spoiler alert: I'm making a natural PH balanced Niacinamide Toner) 

On the flip side, avoid Triethanolamine (TEA). It’s a common pH adjuster and emulsifier, but it’s been linked to skin irritation and may form harmful nitrosamines in certain conditions. In my book, that’s a ✨ no-thank-you ✨.

The Ingredients Worth a Side-Eye 

Not everything “chemical” is evil. But some ingredients are worth avoiding—especially if you care about hormone health, inflammation, or simply want a cleaner beauty routine.

Parabens (methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, etc.) ❌

What they are: Preservatives used to prevent bacteria and mold.
Why they’re controversial: Parabens can mimic estrogen, potentially disrupting hormones. Some have been found in breast tissue (though no direct causation has been proven).
Bottom line: There are safer alternatives now, so many clean brands (myself included) choose not to take the risk.

 Sulfates (SLS, SLES) ❌❌

What they are: Harsh detergents that give that satisfying “squeaky clean” feeling.
Why they’re bad: They strip your natural oils, which can lead to dryness, irritation, and barrier damage—especially if you have rosacea or sensitive skin.
Bottom line: Look for sulfate-free on your labels, especially in cleansers.

 Fragrance / Parfum   ❌❌❌

What’s the issue: Companies can legally hide hundreds of ingredients under this single word, including potential allergens and hormone disruptors.

One of the most controversial ingredients often hidden in fragrance is a group of chemicals called phthalates(pronounced thal-ates).

• Used to make scents last longer on your skin or hair — that “all-day fragrance” claim? Yeah, that’s often thanks to phthalates.

• But they’ve been linked to:

  • Hormone disruption (mimicking or blocking estrogen/testosterone)

  • Reproductive issues

  • Developmental problems in children

  • Possible connections to obesity and early puberty

Even worse? You won’t see “phthalates” listed on the label — they’re just lumped into the vague “fragrance” term. It’s the skincare equivalent of saying, “Trust me, babe,” after being caught red-handed.

Bottom line: If fragrance is important to you, look for products that disclose ingredients and avoid harmful additives like phthalates or parabens. Using clean, phthalate-free, paraben-free fragrances (like I do in my Kaviar body oil) can add luxury without the nasty stuff—but always use fragrances thoughtfully, especially if your skin is sensitive.

Chemical-Sounding Ingredients That Are Actually Helpful

Let’s bust some myths. Some of the most misunderstood ingredients are actually total skincare workhorses.

 Phenoxyethanol

Role: Preservative for water-based formulas
Safety: Approved up to 1% and doesn’t carry the hormone risks associated with parabens
Why it’s misunderstood: Not natural, but considered low-risk in small amounts. A “lesser evil” in the world of synthetics.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Role: Mild preservative booster and skin conditioner
Bonus: Often paired with phenoxyethanol or natural systems to improve gentleness

Sodium Hyaluronate (aka Hyaluronic Acid)

Role: Humectant that pulls water into the skin
Why it works: It’s already found in your skin—this is just the stabilized version

Caprylyl Glycol

Role: Preservative booster and skin conditioner
Why we love it: Helps products stay fresh while being gentle

Gluconolactone

Role: Polyhydroxy acid (PHA) for gentle exfoliation
Why it’s great: A mild resurfacing option for reactive or aging skin

And a few others others:

Sodium PCA (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) is a naturally occurring humectant

Tocopherol (Vitamin E)

Decyl Glucoside a surfactant

Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (aka “baby foam” – super gentle)

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate an emulsifier and solubilizer used in cleansing oils and balms to give that magical "milky rinse-off" when water hits oil.

 

Marketing Gimmicks to Watch Out For

Let’s call out the fluff:

• “Dermatologist Tested”: Means nothing. A dermatologist could have looked at it once.
• “Non-comedogenic”: Totally unregulated by law, so take it with a grain of salt. While some oils and ingredients do have an actual comedogenic rating scale (how likely they are to clog pores), this can vary widely depending on your individual skin type and sensitivity. Use your judgment and get to know what triggers your own skin’s reactions.
• “Hypoallergenic”: Also unregulated. A product labeled this way can still cause reactions.

So What Should You Look For?

Here’s your cheat sheet. Flip the bottle and check for these:

✅ Cold-pressed or unrefined oils
✅ No parabens, sulfates, phthalates, or synthetic fragrance
✅ Ingredients you recognize—or can at least pronounce without summoning demons
✅ Transparent ingredient list with full disclosure, not fluff

Final Thoughts

Reading skincare labels isn’t about paranoia—it’s about power. The beauty industry can be murky, but your skincare routine doesn’t have to be. Whether you prefer all-natural, lab-crafted, or a blend of both, knowing what’s in your products lets you choose wisely—and skip the snake oil.

So here’s to more midnight ingredient sleuthing, fewer breakouts, and skincare that actually makes sense—for your skin and your sanity.

Stay Radiant,

Stay reel,

See you next week

Steph

The Luxe Edit

P.S.  I dedicate this post to my beautiful friend Vika !! You inspired this one.